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sharonmarrell
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| Posted: October.02.05 at 6:43pm | IP Logged
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So, I have the above mentioned and the whole flute sounds abit stuffy
as it is but the low D and E especially don't want to speak. I've tried
woven and pressed felt pads. The body isn;t bent, tenon isn't seperatd.
The pads are seated according to all the tests but when you put on
flute clips and seal the end and then look through the other end you
can see rings of light inside from the overhead light! The tone holes
appear to be in tact. No air escapes as you blow and suck in. Its a
mystery. Any thoughts/ideas or experience with this?
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admin
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| Posted: October.02.05 at 8:04pm | IP Logged
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Hi Sharon,
You've probably already checked this but just in case....
Does the head corks seal and is it in the correct position?
Michelle
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sharonmarrell
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| Posted: October.03.05 at 7:16pm | IP Logged
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yes, i did check the headcork (I forgot to mention that)
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admin
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| Posted: October.03.05 at 7:19pm | IP Logged
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Hi Sharon,
Another possibility....have you tried a different head joint?
Michelle
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sharonmarrell
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| Posted: October.03.05 at 7:34pm | IP Logged
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Oh yes and that made no difference! (also checking on your bass head joint question)
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admin
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| Posted: October.03.05 at 7:39pm | IP Logged
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Ok. Another couple possibilities:
1. Take all the keys off.
Plug up the tone holes with rubber stoppers and plug up the one end of
the bore. Submerge the body in a pitcher of water and blow on the open
end. Look for bubbles.
2. Take a piece of brass tubing that will
clear the washers on the pads. Put one end of the tubing against the
pad and try to create a suction through the other end. Do this on each
pad.
Michelle
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bobbaier
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| Posted: October.03.05 at 11:51pm | IP Logged
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Did you check the headjoint with suction to be sure there's not a leak
in the solder around the lip plate? If that's OK, next, I wrap a
thickness of electrical tape around the assembled headjoint and flute
body and play to be sure that there's no irregularity in the head tenon
fit. It may feel snug, but can still leak.
Triple check the trill keys and the top side of the thumb key.
Does
the 3rd octave respond? If not, and your're sure of the seal, I've
found that a little--not a lot--of over and undercutting can make a big
difference especially in Gemeinhardts of mid-80's vintage. Also, be
sure the embouchure hole is clean. A little Simichrome on a cotton swab
works great.
bob
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Topic: Gemeinhardt M2
